Canadian Museum for Human Rights celebrates the wins and pays deep respect to the losses

Worldwide Holodomor Memorial Day is honoured on the 4th Saturday of November. Holodomor Memorial Day is honoured in schools on the 4th Friday of November every year.

I was born and raised in Winnipeg, and currently live just an hour north of the city. But it took me three years to finally visit the Canadian Museum for Human Rights (CMHR) that has been open to the public since, September, 2014.

human-rights-museum

The Canadian Museum for Human Rights is flagged by its mantra, “All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights.”

Why did it take me so long to visit the CMHR–Canada’s first national museum outside of the National Capital Region (of Ottawa and area)? Why did it take me so long to visit this architectural wonder in my own hometown? Why did it take me so long to visit something that I clearly support and believe in, as I have been a donor to the museum since they launched the public fundraising campaign quite a number of years ago?

human-rights-museum

Our tour guide Nick gives us an intro of the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, with the Welcome sign in the background. The Welcome sign contains living images that walk onto the screen and write welcome in one of more than 30 languages.

It’s because I thought that it would be a completely sad experience, and I admit to trying to limit the amount of negative energy that comes into my life. But I was wrong!  The CMHR is the first (and to my knowledge only) museum in the world dedicated exclusively to the evolution, celebration, and future of human rights. That means there are as many happy stories that are told and celebrated as there are horrific ones to acknowledge.

all human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights

The mantra of the museum is celebrated throughout its exhibits: All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights. If only the politicians of the world would act by that philosophy, we would see an end to war and crimes against humanity.

The Holocaust Gallery reminds us how volatile that dream can be, and even includes one of the gas canisters that would have been used to execute some of the six million Jews who were killed in Europe between January, 1933, and May, 1945. The adjacent “Breaking the Silence Gallery” is devoted to four other modern-day genocides that include the Holodomor (meaning death by starvation) in which it is estimated that six to seven million Ukrainians are reported to have been starved to death by the Soviet leadership between 1932 and 1933. I found that figure to be alarming, as both my parental families were of Ukrainian heritage and I had no idea of the magnitude of that genocide which undoubtedly took the lives of members of my own extended family. What was even more horrifying, is that the Holodomor occurred during a time of peace. There was no war or natural disaster to have caused this genocide. It was a forced famine orchestrated under Stalin’s direction to try and get rid of the Ukrainian Communist Party. During this atrocity, grain and all food was stolen  from the peasant farmers (known as collective farm workers) throughout the Ukrainian countryside in an attempt to annihilate any opposition to the Russian Communist Party.

the holodomor is one of the genocides remembered at the canadian museum for human rights

The sculpture shown at the top of this post is entitled “Bitter Memories of Childhood” and appears as part of the Holodomor exhibit in the Break the Silence Gallery at the CMHR. Photo credit: Aaron Cohen, courtesy of the CMHR. The  Holodomor (meaning death by hunger) is a sad day in Ukrainian heritage that is remembered each year on the fourth Saturday of November throughout the world. 

As the Canadian Museum for Human Rights is built on Treaty One Territory, great care has been taken to respect the ancestral grounds of the indigenous people who–for more than 6,000 years–have lived near and met at the place where the Red and Assiniboine Rivers meet. Now a National Historic Site, this heart of Winnipeg landmark is called The Forks and is a must for any visitor to Winnipeg.

human-right-museum

The Indigenous Perspectives Gallery at the CMHR gives great insight into the challenges and lives of our indigenous people. Photo credit: Chronic Creative/CMHR.

During our 90-minute introductory guided tour we were ensured that consultation with indigenous elders is ongoing, to ensure that every step of construction, development, and expansion of the CMHR was, is, and will be respectful.

the human rights museum in winnipeg is a must see

The building itself is an architectural masterpiece, and for those with a keen interest in architecture, you can take a 90-minute tour devoted to the intricacies of building the CMHR. That’s next on my list! Hats off to American architect Antoine Predock for this inspirational design of hope that combines the vision of a mountain with other aspects of Canada’s natural landscape. It is awe-inspiring, inside and out. If you are unable to make it to Winnipeg, you can take a virtual tour of this magnificent museum here

human-rights-museum

The ramps at the CMHR are made of alabaster and beautifully lit, connecting your journey as you make your way up each level.

What also impacted me about the CMHR is how inclusionary it is. There are beautifully lit alabaster ramps that enable visitors to make their way between the seven levels of the museum. There are also glass elevators that enable you to see the work stations of everyone working in administrative roles at the museum as you rise above them. Close-captioning is used to describe exhibits to the hearing impaired. And there are even three-dimensional replicas of artwork to enable the visually-impaired to see the art in some of the galleries.

human-rights-museum

You get marvellous views of the city of Winnipeg from the 8th floor Israel Asper Tower of Hope. Pictured here is Old St. Boniface on the other side of the Red River, the Esplanade Riel walking bridge in the centre, and the St. Boniface Bridge on the left.

If you have the time, do plan to spend the day at the CMHR. You’ll find  the ERA Bistro at which you can enjoy lunch or a snack indoors or outdoors (weather permitting) as we did. And there is the lovely Boutique gift shop that sells all sorts of gifts, books, and even a nice selection of chocolate. I bought a mini-box of the Peace by Chocolate chocolates made in Antigonish, Nova Scotia, Canada, by a family of Syrian refugees. And I bought a delicious bar by Winnipeg’s Chocolatier Constance Popp, whose shop in St. Boniface is just a short walk or drive over the Esplanade Riel bridge. Constance has lovely chocolate sculptures of the CMHR for sale in her shop.

human-rights-museum

The Boutique gift shop at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights sells chocolates made by a family of Syrian refugees who now live in Nova Scotia, Canada.

 

human-rights-museum

I really loved the White Chocolate Mango Bar from Chocolatier Constance Popp that I purchased in the boutique at the CMHR.

Have you been to the Canadian Museum for Human Rights? What most impacted you about this Winnipeg landmark? Please join the conversation and help me spread the word that the Canadian Museum for Human Rights isn’t all about doom and gloom. It’s filled with lots of natural sunshine and plenty of hope, too.

human-rights-museum

And if you are unable to come to Winnipeg and visit the CMHR but would like to help this amazing facility grow and become sustainable, please consider donating to the museum via this link. Thanks.

Doreen Pendgracs

Known throughout the Web as the "Wizard of Words", I've been a freelance writer since 1993. I'm currently researching and writing volume II of "Chocolatour: A Quest for the World's Best Chocolate". Volume I was published in September, 2013.

117 Responses

  1. Frances Petrowski says:

    Thanks for this educational post Doreen!
    I went a few years ago and now after reading this I will definitely have to go back and allow more time for the visit!
    I didn’t realize Holodomor was during a time of peace. Such a horrific time! I don’t remember learning about it in school when I went but I’m glad it is now.
    We really do have to keep reminding our governments (and each other) that “All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights”.
    Thanks Doreen
    Keep Safe

    • Hi Frances and thx so much for your comment. Yes, it’s such a shame that they didn’t give any mention of the Holodomor when we went to school, and I even took a special course in European history! I don’t recall my father ever mentioning it, so it is doubtful that our parents even knew about what was going on in the Ukraine in the 1930’s. We had our own problems with the Great Depression! The CMHR is a true gem — despite the internal problems they had over the past year.

  2. This sounds like a museum I would very much like to spend a day touring. Some people won’t read The Dairy of Anne Frank because they think it is so sad. But it is a story of hope and human spirit. Sounds like this wonderful museum.

    • Indeed, RoseMary. I am confident you would enjoy the Canadian Museum for Human Rights. I was amazed at the architecture, and the variety and depth of the exhibits. Plan that trip to Winnipeg and put it at the top of your list!

  3. I took the time today to watch the video offered by the Canadian Institute for Ukrainian Studies at the University of Alberta. Thx to Cynthia of Edmonton for alerting us to this video during which author Anne Applebaum was interviewed about her book about the Holodomor called “Red Famine.” You’ll find a link to that video at https://www.ualberta.ca/canadian-institute-of-ukrainian-studies/index.html. It sounds like the book is well worth reading.

  4. Rina Nehdar says:

    Wow, I too am of Ukranian descent. My dad was born in Odessa. I have never heard of this but will be researching it now. Just another reminder to be wary of government overreach.

  5. Margaret Anne Fehr says:

    I know that Winnipeg is not the same city I left 8 years ago to establish myself in the GTA. I will be visiting when it’s safe to travel again and this museum is on my go-to list for sure. If you recall, in 2008 when then-PWAC Winnipeg hosted our annual conference, the CMHR was still in the planning and fundraising stages so it was left to our imaginations to see what the final result would be. Your article paints such a vivid picture! I often think of my grandparents who came from the Ukraine in the early part of the 20th century to settle in an unknown country and culture and gave their full commitment to making a life! Such courage, gumption and faith!

    • Hi Margaret! Yes, you’ve definitely got to visit the CMHR. I’d love to go back with you as my first visit was far too rushed. Looking forward to seeing you again soon & helping you rediscover Winnipeg.

  6. Mary-Anne Ignaszewski says:

    Great article. I have to admit that I have not yet seen this great museum. I had tried to visit the Agent Orange museum in Vietnam but was soon overwhelmed with deep grief by just reading a few articles and viewing a few pictures that I had to leave. My husband was able to spend some time there though. I wish my Ukrainian parents were alive to get their views of Holodomor.

    • Hi Mary-Anne and thanks so much for your comment. It’s been a long while! I, too, thought the CMHR would be so sad that I would find it horrifying. But they really have done a superb job of blending g the joy and triumphs with the grief and pain. Do check it out once they re-open. and if you didn’t notice Cynthia’s comment above, there is a free Holodomor event happening online tomorrow aft at 2:30 our time. Check out the link she posted.

  7. I’ve visited this amazing museum–spent a whole day there. An education!

    The holodomor was a famine engineered by Joseph Stalin. It was a horrific time. Like you, Doreen, I am of Ukrainian heritage and I am always interested in learning more about Ukrainian history. The Canadian Institute of Ukrainian Studies (CIUS), which is part of the University of Alberta is actually holding a free online event tomorrow (Saturday, November 28, 2020 at 1:30 pm MST). Historian/journalist Anne Applebaum will be speaking about the holodomor and the book she wrote about it. The event is entitled: Stalin’s War on Ukraine. Writing Red Famine, the Story of the Holodomor. A conversation with Anne Applebaum. The event will be streamed on the CIUS YouTube channel. More information at https://www.ualberta.ca/canadian-institute-of-ukrainian-studies/index.html.

    • Thx so much for this info, Cynthia! I will try and catch that online discussion tomorrow. It will be at 2:30 Central, for any Manitobans reading this.

      I had not previously heard of the Canadian Institute for Ukrainian Studies. We do have Oseredok (have you been there?) in Winnipeg, that I believe is formally known as the Ukrainian Cultural and Educational Centre, said to be “The largest Ukrainian cultural institution of its kind in Canada.” I suspect it is far less academic than the institute in Alberta.

    • Phoenix says:

      I’d love to see this video.
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  8. Beverly says:

    Thanks for another informative post. The statue that was built in memory of the event is beautiful.

    • Hi Bev and thanks so much for your comment. Yes, the sculpture at the entrance to the Holodomor Gallery is stunning. It is sad, but it opens your heart to what you will behold as you slowly make your way through the exhibits explaining the monstrosities committed against the Ukrainian people.

  9. Linda Paul says:

    This is a fascinating post, Doreen. I’ve been to Holocaust Museums in the US and Germany, but of course, I’ve not been to Winnipeg, so didn’t even know about this museum. Nor have I heard the term, Holodomor. I did know a little bit about the Ukrainian issue, but very little. I’ve heard more about the Armenian genocide, of which I was ignorant until about 20 years ago. I imagine a large portion of the museum is dedicated to First Nations atrocities?

    Mankind’s blood lust and willingness to defy the sacredness of life is beyond belief. I’ve come to the conclusion that this is the ugly side of humanity that will always be present. In good times we can hold it at bay, but the minute there is a ripple in economic conditions somewhere, this cancer starts spreading.

    Thanks for sharing your experience at this great museum. I think it is one I could spend several days in.

    • Hi Linda. Thx as always for your very thoughtful comment. Yes, the CMHR does indeed have a large First Nations exhibit. There has been some difficulties within their own ranks at the museum re prejudice and HR infractions. but they have a brand new CEO and hopefully they will carry forward in their efforts with the integrity and determination needed to make the world a better place.

      You would indeed need a full day (at least!) to fully take in the museum’s exhibits. Just one more reason for you to come to Winnipeg. I’d love to meet you.

  10. Phoenix says:

    Hi Doreen, I’ve been to the Forks, but was not aware there was a CMHR in Winnipeg! If we ever manage to get to Winnipeg again, we’ll be sure to visit that heritage site. The Holodomor is part of my roots, as well. Thanks for this informative article.
    Phoenix recently posted…The Wild Edge of SorrowMy Profile

    • Thanks so much for your comment, Esther. I’m surprised you hadn’t previously heard of the CMHR. It is such an amazing facility. And for sure. On your next trip to Winnipeg, be sure to allow yourselves a day to visit it thoroughly as it is truly impactful.

  11. Thrilled to hear that Peace by Chocolate products are sold at CMHR. Of course, I’m biased, as they are from NS and we claim them as our own! Just so proud of what this family has accomplished. Meanwhile, I enjoyed reading about CMHR and should I ever get out your way Doreen, this will be #1 on my list. Thanks for the insights.

  12. Phoenicia says:

    I am yet to visit Canada and have heard only wonderful things about it. It is clean, picturesque and cold in winter!

    I enjoy visiting museums – so much history good and bad. You mentioned the Holocaust gallery. So many precious lives lost…….

    • Hi Phoenicia and thanks for your comment. Yes, it is indeed cold now here in Canada. I hear it will go down to -25C this weekend!!! I hope you will have the opportunity to visit in the future, but plan your visit for a time between April and October.

  13. Beverly says:

    You have provided a vast amount of information. I am encouraged to visit the Museum of Human Rights.

    • Super, Bev. I’d highly recommend taking the general tour for your first visit. It gives you the highlights and then you can always return to the exhibits that most interested you.

  14. Looks like an impactful museum–like the Holocaust Memorial in Washington, DC. These places are very difficult for us to experience, but I try to think of it as honoring the people who had to suffer through so much.

    • Hi RoseMary and thanks for your comment. I think there are a couple of major differences between the DC museum and the CMHR. The CMHR is not focused exclusively on the Holocaust, but instead, has chosen to accentuate the fact that there have been human rights atrocities in many parts of the world. As well, the CMHR has really made an effort to infuse as much positivity in the way it brings issues forward as possible. I truly came out of there feeling hope for humanity.

  15. This looks amazing Doreen! I’ve been to Winnepeg but it was just a quick business trip and I would love to see this so I have just added to my bucket list, maybe I can get there next year. Thank you so much for sharing, and for your usual stunning images.
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    • Thanks so much for your comment of enthusiasm, Marquita. Being privileged to read your blog, I know how much you appreciate positivity and hope. You will find them both infused into the thoughtful exhibits at the Canadian Museum for Human Rights. Do let me know if and when you get to Winnipeg as I’d love to see you. 🙂

  16. Thank you for sending this post to me, Doreen, as I just today learned of Peace By Chocolate, and don’t remember reading this post, in which you include this company owned and operated by a family of Syrian refugees who are “picking up where they left off” from their chocolate company in Syria. I remember being in Winnipeg and hearing about the CMHR. It’s lovely to visit it virtually with you and I hope to go with you for an actual visit.

  17. Congrats to the Canadian Museum for Human Rights for being featured on the new (2018 issued) Canadian $10 bill. On the other side of the bill is an image of Viola Desmond, who is featured at the CMHR in an exhibit championing her fight for human rights in Nova Scotia.

  18. Mike OReilly says:

    Thanks Doreen, you’ve inspired me to make a visit to the museum.

  19. Lord says:

    “All human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights” – what a beautiful mantra! Hopefully I can visit Canada soon! If I do, I will check out this museum 🙂

  20. Holocaust has been one of the darkest chapter of the human history. The gas canisters on display must give some goosebumps. It’s heart breaking to know the bit about your Ukrainian connection and how your extended family could have been a victim. Poignant places like these make me silent in contemplation.
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  21. Winnipeg is one of my favourite cities! Although I have to say I haven’t been to this museum…yet!
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    • Hi Ayngelina and thx for stopping by. Winnipeg is definitely a city that you have to experience to love. I get frustrated by media that use ridiculous stereotypes to describe Winnipeg. I’m glad you have had some great experiences in our city and hope that you will soon add a visit to the CMHR to that list. 🙂
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  22. This is the kind of museum that should be on everyone’s list. So thought provoking and important to look back at the mistakes we have made and what they have led to.
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  23. Marc Smith says:

    Never been but it is on my list. And in this day and current political climate even more important to see.

  24. neha says:

    I never knew there is a museum of human rights as well. When I visit Canada, I am not going to leave without visiting here. What an experience it must be. I am a firm believer and advocate of human equality, the museum resonates my sentiments
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  25. This museum is indeed unique and also the message it is spreading is so much needed as well as commendable.The world would be a better place if the countries and politicians of the world believed in the motto of this museum. I was touched by the peace by chocolate message too.

  26. I love that Donna’s post inspired you to visit. Like you I had reservations about visiting he Human Rights Museum in Atlanta. Especially with all the negative news surrounding us. It was an intense and thought provoking experience, one that brought me to tears. If we are to learn from our history, it’s so important to try and understand our past. If i’m ever in Winnipeg, I’ll make sure to get there.
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  27. Not sure if I’ll ever make it to Winnipeg Doreen but if I ever do this museum will definitely be on my must see list.
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  28. I think I would have been like you – not wanting to visit a place which I thought might be depressing. How lovely that it is not like that at all. For much the same reason David and I have decided not to visit The Killing Fields when we are in Cambodia next year, notwithstanding that we could sign up for a tour from our river cruise boat. David, in particularly, feels very strongly that suffering and misery should not become a tourist attraction. I agree with him but I don’t think I could stick to my principles as solidly as he does.
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  29. About time you got there! How can this museum be a sobering and uplifting experience at the same time?! So well done! We encourage our guests at Evergreen Gate B and B to go , and even those who are not normally ” museum types” engage with the displays and messages and find they have not allowed enough time…..One of the best surprises for me in the museum was finding a couple of Winnipeg friends profiled on the main floor, for their accomplishments in the LGBQT (did I get all the letters?) area.

  30. Amanda says:

    I’ve been to events at the museum but have not yet been through the exhibits; my out-of-town guests have been and have been admiring of the content. I must get myself there! In the meantime, I love the spire in the city’s skyline, and I love having this museum in Winnipeg. I’m sure it’s not perfect, but then I believe that perfection is the enemy of achievement: We have the museum and I know it’s contributing to dialogue, thought and community building.

  31. What a wonderful place. As you know, I live near the Canadian border, and grew up on Canadian TV and culture.
    I have noticed, that in Canada, the wrongs of the past are exposed and expressed more openly than here in the US. I am glad to see a museum based on Human Rights, we must stop looking at others, as others. And start accepting them as rightful tenants of this planet.

  32. The CMHR sounds like a really effective museum, and the architecture is wonderful! It’s an art to present a topic that can be grim in a way that isn’t just depressing. I’ve seen others that are effective in dealing with grim topics, especially Yad Vashem, the Holocaust museum in Israel and the museum in Hiroshima too.
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  33. Looks like a very moving place to visit. The statue of the sad little girl is heartbreaking, yet so thought-provoking.

  34. I never knew there was such a musuem for showcasing human rights. I think its a great post, and I will share this on my feed. Its important for the next generation to think that everyone is equal and deserves equal rights. Politicians world over, spread negative karma and energies
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  35. Mags says:

    This seems like a heavy museum, but an important one. Unfortunately, it seems to be an issue that needs revisiting these days.

  36. Hi Pat: thanks for stopping by my blog. It’s always great to hear from you. I would be delighted to accompany you to the CMHR on your next visit to Winnipeg. 🙂
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  37. Pat says:

    Our last visit to Winnipeg was August 2014 so all we got to see was the building. Global did a story on it so we did get to see some of the displays. It will definitely be on our to do list on our next visit. Hoping you can be our personal tour guide!

  38. Rosemary says:

    What a fascinating museum. Never heard of it, thanks for writing about it and one that I would love to check out. How interesting is the Treaty One Territory. What a respectful cultural and historical experience. Looking forward to visiting this museum.

  39. Karen Warren says:

    What a great idea for a museum! I like that it celebrates the ancestral lands it stands on.
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  40. Great write-up Doreen. It’s especially timely as the museum also recognizes the genocide of the Mayan people of Guatemala by the military and government forces. A persecution that continued for decades.
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  41. It’s interesting to know that a museum exists for Human Rights as well. It will be a learning for everyone about the atrocities and violence our brothers & sisters had to go through in the past. Hope people take lessons from the museums and learn to respect humanity.
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  42. carrie @ frugal foodie mama says:

    This museum would for sure be on my itinerary if I ever plan a visit to Winnipeg. I am a former history & social studies teacher, so historical museums & sites always make my list when I travel. Plus, I think that in this day & age it is so important to be reminded of how far we have come in this world & to not let history repeat itself.

  43. Jean says:

    What a beautiful museum and a very well written article. On a topic that could be presented so very differently.

  44. Lara Dunning says:

    I haven’t been, and I can totally understand your hesitation in going. Sounds like a very moving experience. I’ll keep it in mind when I make it that direction.
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  45. Linda Strange says:

    Wonderful article, Doreen ! The famous saying goes something like “those who don’t learn from the past are doomed to repeat it”. The MPI Retirees had a tour I think 2 years ago. Couldn’t possibly have covered the whole CMHR in a couple of hours. The historic aspects, both old and “new”, and the thoughtful, artistic way most things are presented is just mind-boggling. It’s hard to think that so many of our elder citizens who came to Winnipeg were personally affected by the atrocities in various parts of Europe. People the age of our parents.

  46. Phoenicia says:

    I always look forward to your posts Doreen.

    What a beautiful view taken from the 8th floor of the Tower of Hope.

    Love the photograph of the chocolates- nice end to what looks like an eventful day.
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  47. Wendy Peck says:

    Well done story, Doreen. I’ve been a few times, and still am awestruck as much by the beauty of the building as the impact of the exhibits. I’m glad they chose to present such serious topics in a beautiful setting. I’m sure you could make an argument that a sombre, austere setting would be appropriate, but I think the beauty allows us to relax and absorb the bright spots, the stories of courage, etc., that we are seeing.

  48. Cindy says:

    I share your aversion to things that sound depressing – there seem to be enough of those in the news most days, so was glad to get the sense that you found the museum enlightening and a uplifting. I didn’t realize the architecture was so impressive either. While we probably would have visited on our next trip to Winnipeg, now it is a reason to plan another trip to Winnipeg!

  49. You had commented but it is a while back, here it is again http://cultureatz.com/ukrainian-crepes-nalysnyky
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  50. I am Canadian but never been near Winnipeg…so had no idea we had a CMHR. Love their motto even if so hard things are show. I wrote about the Ukranian genocide not long ago too actually, well USSR starvation numbers.
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  51. Carol Colborn says:

    This is the second piece I have read about the museum. Quite a different take especially with the chocolate add-on!

  52. Giselle says:

    A trip to the Human Rights Museum is now on my Bucket List. Thanks Doreen! Why is it that when we travel we look for places to visit but when we are at home we don’t venture where we should in our own amazing backyard! Hoping this fall takes us exploring closer to home.

  53. Emily says:

    It can be quite sad and confronting but also very important for us to remember our past mistakes and learn from them and seeing museums like this is a great way to do it.
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  54. Tami says:

    Yes, that’s right!
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  55. Tami says:

    There is a similar museum in Los Angeles that all of our children went to on school field trips. I think it is so important for everyone to be educated about our history and the ways we can avoid these tragedies in the future.
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  56. Donna Janke says:

    Doreen, I’m glad you finally made it to the CMHR. I’ve visited a few times and written about it. It now tops my list of recommendations of what to see in Winnipeg. It is serious and thought-provoking and sometimes somber, but the message overall is definitely not negative but one of hope and inspiration.
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    • Right on, Donna. It was your lovely post that helped inspire me to visit the CMHR as you covered it so well. I agree it is truly a Winnipeg gem.
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      • I remember reading Donna’s post about this museum and very much hope that I get to visit it some day.
        I had all of your conflicting emotions about visiting the Holocaust Museum in Washington DC. We went once, but only made it through the first, un-ticketed part. It was wrenching. The last time we went, we only went to the ticketed/time area. It was emotionally overwhelming, but we were both “glad” that we finally did it. And yes, I would do it again. The impact of these places is so intense that to repeat it as to learn more.

  57. Susan Cooper says:

    How awesome – would love to visit this one. It’s something I worry we’re losing in the states.

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